Hiking Mt. Fuji for Sunrise: A Two-Day Adventure With My Sister
- Alex
- Nov 19
- 6 min read
Updated: Nov 21
An overly ambitious, slightly chaotic, completely unforgettable weekend.
Getting to Fujiyoshida
To set the scene: this is the story of how my sister and I climbed Mount Fuji over two days, stayed overnight on the mountain, slept basically zero hours, and somehow made it to the summit just in time for sunrise.
But first, let’s talk transportation.
To this day, I still have no idea how to book highway buses online. JR Pass? No idea. Bullet trains? No chance.
What we did managed to organise in advance was our the mountain hut for the overnight stay (THIS IS ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL) and the accomodation in Fujiyoshida. Otherwise, we literally walked up to the highway bus counter in Shinjuku and bought tickets like it was 1998.
The bus usually takes 2–3 hours. Sometimes, if the universe is feeling spicy, it takes 4–5. Moral of the story: leave time for chaos.
When we arrived at the counter, the next departing bus was already full. So, we did the only logical thing and went and smashed some Korean BBQ while waiting for the following bus which was Mt Fuji bound.
Side note: if anyone knows how to book these buses online, drop a comment or email me. I beg you.
The Hostel With the Magical Bread
We eventually arrived in Yamanashi and checked into an absolute gem: Hostel Fujisan YOU.
Important clarification: Yes, it’s technically a “hostel.” No, it doesn’t feel like a hostel because once you book a room, it’s your room. Bathrooms are shared, but the rooms are private.
The moment we stepped in, the air smelled like heaven - freshly baked, buttery shokupan heaven. A strange man (possibly the proprietor’s son) was slicing up the freshly baked bread and handed us a piece each. Strange dude but the bread was sensational. It was warm, fluffy, slightly sweet (but not in the sugary way). It was perfect.
We wandered around town for an hour, found a Japanese diner, and I demolished a perfect tonkatsu set meal which included miso soup, pickles, salad, fruit salad, the a big bowl of rice. Rural Japan feeds you like a beloved grandchild and charges you ¥1000.
Everything in town closed early (country life), so we headed back and tucked ourselves in.
Day One: Starting From the Very First Torii Gate
Most people catch the bus from Fuji station to 5th Station and start there, halfway up.
But not us.
No, no.
We decided to start from the first torii gate in town, because apparently we wanted the full character-building experience.
Our hostel was literally around the corner from the gate, so the commitment was too easy.
We slept well, woke up at 7 a.m., stuffed ourselves with more shokupan, grabbed konbini yogurt and fruit, and I pulled out cash for the Mt. Fuji conservation fee (¥4,000 per person -
they give you a bracelet thing to wear).
FYI I withdrew ¥25,000 just to have extra money on me should the need arise for such things.
We set off at 8 a.m., spirits sky high, backpacks full, and me carrying about 15 kg of both of our gear because I am a gentleman (and, realistically, just a little stronger).
Stations 1 – 4: All Abandoned
Fun fact: from the first torii gate to the summit, there are nine stations.
Even more fun fact: Stations 1–4 are abandoned shacks that look like someone gave up halfway through building a ramen shop in 1962.
No water, no food, no staff, no nothing.
So, if you start from town: Bring your own water, electrolytes, and plenty of food.
My sister and I packed water, bananas, oranges, and a handful of onigiri. It sustained us perfectly.
It took us four hours and about 14 km to reach 5th Station, arriving around midday.
5th Station: Curry Udon!
The singular 5th Station restaurant opens at 11 am. Good to know if you get there early.
Also, it’s important to point out that this is NOT the 5th station where the buses from town pull into. This is the 5th station on the Yoshida trail, and still a few minutes walk to the 5th station security hut on the side of the mountain.
We sat down for a full meal.I got curry udon and a pudding (don’t judge me).My sister got the Japanese curry rice with a side of salad.
We rested for an hour. When you stop moving after hiking in the July heat and humidity, your heart rate drops and your body gets chilly surprisingly fast so pack a light jumper, even in summer.
After eating, we went to the official 5th Station checkpoint, paid the mandatory conservation or “entrance/passage” fee, got our wristbands, and merged into the sea of other climbers.
Suddenly we were surrounded by people in full hiking setups:Arc’teryx jackets, trekking poles, glacier goggles, five layers of thermal gear…Meanwhile I was out here in shorts with no T-shirt.
Daytime hiking in summer is hot so full hiking gear isn’t necessary. At night though, different story.
The Long Climb to 8.5 Station
Amelia and I are both fit and love hiking so we kept a good pace and made it to 7th Station for snacks: snickers bars, bananas, Pocari Sweat.
We met a lovely couple, Daniel and Danielle, on their honeymoon in Japan. Legends.
Then we climbed to our accommodation at 8.5 Station, arriving late afternoon as the cold started settling in.
Dinner: Japanese curry, plus a random sausage or hamburger patty (Fuji hut cuisine.. it is what it is).
Bedtime: 8:30 p.m.Sleep achieved: approximately 0.4 hours.
These huts fit 50–100 people, all rustling, coughing, zipping bags, and arriving at random hours. My sister barely slept. I slept for 30 minutes, woke up, then stared into the void until about 2 a.m.
The 230 am Launch Into Darkness
At around 2 am, I peeked outside and saw a MASSIVE line of hikers already snaking up the mountain. I could see from everyone’s headlamps which was kinda cool!
If we wanted a sunrise summit, we had to leave immediately.
So by 2:30 am, we were back on the trail. Into the pitch-black night we went, inside the clouds, freezing cold, soaked from the moisture in the air.
This is where the full hiking gear actually is necessary:
Long pants
Waterproof outer shell
Gloves
Strong headlamp
The trail narrows dramatically the higher you go, and with hundreds of hikers packed together, it becomes slow, stop-start climbing. Zero chance to overtake.
It was cold.
It was wet.
It was dark.
And again, just for emphasis, it was cold.
Sunrise on the Summit
We reached the summit about 20 minutes before sunrise.
The sun rose around 4 am, glowing deep red and vibrant orange through the clouds. Even with cloud cover, it felt unreal. Easily one of the most beautiful moments I’ve ever experienced.
Fifteen minutes of pure magic.
Then it was gone.
We grabbed photos, drank hot coffee, ate something warm, soaked it all in, and prepared for the long descent.
The Descent
The descent is LONG — do not underestimate it.
We teamed up again with Daniel and Danielle and spent about three hours talking complete rubbish while sliding down the gravel paths, half-delirious.
By the time we reached 5th Station, we were wrecked.
We said our goodbyes to the honeymoon legends, grabbed overpriced-but-essential food, and caught a bus back to Tokyo around 10am.
I can confirm I fell asleep as soon as I took my seat.
Lessons & Tips for Your Own Sunrise Fuji Hike
1. If you start from the first torii gate in town: pack like you’re going into battle.
Stations 1–4 are abandoned. Bring water, electrolytes, and food.
2. Don’t underestimate the cold at night.
Even in the hot Japanese summer:
Long pants
Waterproof jacket
Layers
Gloves
Good headlamp
3. Book accommodation around 8th or 8.5 Station to break up the climb.
If you’re thinking of a sunrise hike, BOOK THIS IMMEDIATELY. The mountain huts don’t have many vacancies if you try to make a last minute booking during the climbing season.
4. Expect zero sleep.
Just mentally prepare yourself.
5. Start the summit push EARLY.
2–2:30 am is perfect. The earlier, the better.
6. Bring cash for snacks and the conservation fee (¥4,000).
Snickers bars and chippies and Pocari sweat are essential while climbing. And you can’t exit off the mountain without showing the guards back at 5th station your wristband (5th station where you catch the buses home from).
8. The descent is long — save energy for it.
Just a heads up because like most people, I forgot that there would be a long and steep descent after climbing for so many hours lol.
9. Do it with someone you love spending time with.
The suffering is fun when you’re sharing it.
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